How To Install Manual - Chain Link Cantilever Gate
By Chad Hoover, CFP

[ 1 ] Overview [ 2 ] Plan [ 3 ] Layout [ 4 ] Set Posts [ 5 ] Install Fittings [ 6 ] Hang Gate [ 7 ] Install Latch [ 8 ] Install Operator

Tools for Layout:

Measuring wheels are excellent tools for layout of large fence projects - Hoover Fence Co.
Measuring Wheel

 

Small hand-held measuring tapes are critical on any fence job - Hoover Fence Co.
Measuring Tape - Small

 

Use a sledge hammer for driving stakes for tying string to - Hoover Fence Co.
Sledge Hammer

 

Use upside down marking paint for marking fence post hole locations - Hoover Fence Co.
Marking Paint

 

Small gasoline powered earth augers are excellent for fence post holes - Hoover Fence Co.
Small Auger

 

Large auger attachments are often mounted to a Bobcat or other brand skid steer. These augers are usually hydraulic - Hoover Fence Co.
Large Auger

 

Step 3:  Setting Posts

    Cantilever gates typically require three posts which make them unique; two are used to mount the rollers and gate and a third is required as a latch post. The two roller posts will be the same size and typically larger than the latch post. Important: although the latch post is smaller in diameter, you will set it in concrete the same distance from your guide string as the roller posts. The cantilever latch makes up for the offset once the gate is installed. Cantilever gates only have chain link stretched on the 'opening' portion of the gate. The portion of the gate which is stretched with chain link is typically 6" more than the 'opening' to provide security where the rollers will offset the gate. The counterbalance is not stretched with chain link as it is typically behind the rest of the fence. Set your gate posts according to the 'opening' size of the gate you've ordered. In example, a 20' wide 'opening' size gate opening should have exactly 20' from inside to inside of the latch post and first roller post Fig A-1. If you must error, error on the small side by setting posts too close together. Since the gate overlaps the opening, posts set to close together will not make much difference.

Cantilever gates require 3 posts which make them unique; two are used to mount the rollers and gate and a third is required as a latch post.  The (2) roller posts will be the same size and larger than the latch post.  Although the latch post is smaller in diameter, you will set it in concrete the same distance from your guide string as the roller posts.  The cantilever latch makes up for the offset once the gate is installed.  Cantilever gates only have chain link stretched in the opening portion of the gate.  The counterbalance is not stretched with chain link as it is typically behind the rest of the fence.  Do set your gate opening posts at the ordered size.  The portion of the gate which is stretched is typically 6" wider than the opening to provide security where the rollers will offset the gate.Fig A-1

Cantilever gates require 3 posts which make them unique; two are used to mount the rollers and gate and a third is required as a latch post.  The (2) roller posts will be the same size and larger than the latch post.  Although the latch post is smaller in diameter, you will set it in concrete the same distance from your guide string as the roller posts.  The cantilever latch makes up for the offset once the gate is installed.  Cantilever gates only have chain link stretched in the opening portion of the gate.  The counterbalance is not stretched with chain link as it is typically behind the rest of the fence.  Do set your gate opening posts at the ordered size.  The portion of the gate which is stretched is typically 6" wider than the opening to provide security where the rollers will offset the gate.Fig A-2

Cantilever gates are large and heavy as are their posts. Consult local building practices and codes for proper depth and diameter of holes and concrete footings. In general, footers should be three times the diameters of posts installed. The depth for fence post footers is often recommended to be 1/3 it's length and below frost. You can further anchor posts and concrete footers by digging the hole diameter larger at the bottom of the hole compared to the top. This will result in a 'bell-shaped' hole in contrast to a 'carrot-shaped' hole.

For locating placement of the last roller post, you'll need to measure the stretched portion of your gate and counterbalance to confirm proper fit Fig. A-3. In general, the stretched portion of the cantilever gate is 6" more than the opening to assure it overlaps any gaps caused by the offset of the rollers. Hardware varies therefore it is always best to take measurements once you receive your gate to plan installation.

Fig A-2 shows the top view of the gate once installed.  The offset between the latch post and the latch side of the gate is provided for by the cantilever latch.  For locating placement of the post to the far right of the above drawing, lay gate flat on ground.  From the latch side of the gate, measure towards the counterbalance and make a mark at the gate opening size.   Place a roller onto the rail at the far edge of this mark (counterbalance side).   Next lay the last roller tight against the far side of the counterbalance next to the stop as shown below.  Measure center to center on the two rollers to locate the placement of the roller posts.  Hardware varies therefore it is always best to take measurements once you receive your gate to plan installation. Fig A-3

To set gate posts, dig holes 12-30" in diameter and 42-48" deep. The depth and diameter of the concrete footers vary depending on your location. The hole size above works well in areas with freezing ground. Holes should be "bell-shaped" not "carrot-shaped" Fig. B. Next, fill hole(s) with concrete and "stick" the post into the wet concrete and plumb post with a level. Make sure your concrete consistency is not too wet or soupy.  Concrete should be of a plastic-like consistency, dry enough so the post will not sink to the bottom of the hole.  The gate post should NOT extend to the bottom of the hole; there should concrete under the post as well as all around it.   You will want to leave the concrete level approx. 2-4" below grade or the ground level especially in areas which freeze, back fill with dirt.  Replumb post.    When the ground freezes it can cause the concrete footer to "heave" if you fill the concrete to the top of the hole.  Leave the post(s) alone for approx. 24 hours or a sufficient amount of time for the concrete to harden.  

To set gate posts, dig holes 12-18" in diameter and 42-48" deep.   The depth and diameter of the concrete footers vary depending on your location.   The hole size above works well in areas that have freezing ground.  The holes should be "bell-shaped" not "carrot-shaped" (Fig. B).    Next, fill hole(s) with concrete and "stick" the post into the wet concrete and plumb post with a level. Make sure your concrete consistency is not too wet or soupy.  Concrete should be of a plastic-like consistency, dry enough so the post will not sink to the bottom of the hole.  The gate post should NOT extend to the bottom of the hole; there should concrete under the post as well as all around it.   You will want to leave the concrete level approx. 2-4" below grade or the ground level especially in areas which freeze, back fill with dirt.  Replumb post.    When the ground freezes it can cause the concrete footer to "heave" if you fill the concrete to the top of the hole.  Leave the post(s) alone for approx. 24 hours or a sufficient amount of time for the concrete to harden.  
Fig. B

Continue with Installation Manual for Cantilever Slide Gates - Hoover Fence Co.

Tools for Setting:

Nu Boston Post Hole Diggers - Hoover Fence Co.
Post Hole Diggers - Large

 

Small Post Hole Diggers - Hoover Fence Co.
Post Hole Diggers - Small

 

Fiberglass handled shovels - Hoover Fence Co.
Shovels

 

Small handheld torpedo levels are handy for all fence projects - Hoover Fence co.
Level

 

Spud bars for fence post holes - Hoover Fence Co.
Spud Bar

 

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